opel4ever schreef:
hee ik denk dat ik iets gevonden heb.
lees maar eens:
Boost creep and the LET
There are two sources of boost creep on the LET:
1. ECU pulsing of the wastegate (via the amal valve)
2. The spring of the actuator giving way before maximum boost is reached
Which one is more pronounced can only be found experimentally, and it depends on the make of ECU and actuator make/settings/age. It's easy to check it out, all you need is a boost gauge and some common sense.
Disconnect the pipe from the back of the actuator and plug it with a bolt. Keep it from swinging about with a cable tie. Beware: Now the ECU has no way of pulsing the wastegate, so the 1st gear boost restrictor doesn't apply. If it's a hot day and the temps go over the hill the ECU will be unable to cut down boost, so try this on a cool day, and only if you have a proper intercooler fitted. You'll see that max boost is reached quicker and it will be more brutal too! If you feel a big difference in driveability, that means that the ECU is working overtime pulsing your wastegate, so that might indicate something's wrong.
Next step is to disconnect the wastegate altogether - wind up the nuts several turns, so that the wastegate is kept shut irrespective of boost pressure. Now we're in danger territory, because it's very easy for boost to get out of hand and damage the engine with a boost spike. Avoid full throttle and keep your eye on the boost gauge. If the engine feels a lot more keen to rev, it means that the actuator is tired and it's half-open even when it's supposed to be shut. The diaphragms in the actuators don't live forever, and the springs do get tired after a few years. Get a new one and adjust it properly.
ik zou alleen voor stap 1 gaan, 2 lijkt me te gevaarlijk, mits je twijfels heb aan je acuator, de eerste stap kan je veilig kijken of je amal valve stuk is, of dat er iets anders aan de hand is waardoor je amal ingrijpt.
trickey
niet iets om zomaar ff me te gaan knoeien voor onervaren sleutelaar